You probably already know I had an immediate “coup de foudre” (love at first sight moment) for the island of Santo Antao, Cape Verde.
On my boat hitchhiking trip , I was lucky enough to spend more than 1 month on Sao Vicente, and thus, I decided to explore the neighboring island, Santo Antao. I stayed for 10 days, hiking every single day.
I loved the staggering heights, deep valleys, kind people and nature’s breathtaking beauty.
I left the island with a bittersweet taste in January 2017, thinking I would never return. Well, guess what? Destiny (and Festival 7Sois/7Luas) took me back to Santo Antao to share more travel tips with you.
I never saw an island like Santo Antao before. Protected by a brave sea, its mountainous heights were already luring me when I was in Mindelo, Sao Vicente.
Santo Antao is an island of extremes: the west part has beaches whereas the east has staggering mountains, deep valleys, lush green, terraced farmlands producing fruits and vegetables for the entire CapeVerdean archipelago.
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Short Introduction to Santo Antao
The best of Santo Antao is its mere infinite trekking and hiking possibilities. The former “caminhos vecinais” that used to interconnect the villages and move the cattle are nowadays increasingly used by hikers and trekkers.
That being said, tourism is growing on Santo Antao, but not to an extent where it is unbearable.
Several trails have been signalized in the last years and guides are being trained to provide qualitative services. I highly recommend Edson from Lima Walking Tours who offers guided visits in several languages. (edsondal@live.com.pt)
In case you only have limited time to spend on Santo Antao island, I just put this 2-day itinerary together.
Having only 2 days at your disposal, I highly recommend booking a guide and a transfer in advance in order to enjoy the island stress-free and make the most of your time.
Feel free to contact Edson and he will take care to help you onsite. We went with the driver Galinha (Tel.: 00238.993.1306) and he was great!
The adventurous travelers might like to rent a car in Porto Novo, at Pegaso’s, located 300m from the ferry arrivals.
There are 4 ferries per day departing from Mindelo, Sao Vicente. The ride takes 1 hour. I recommend buying the tickets 1 day before your departure at the ferry dock in Mindelo (along Avenida Marginal). Schedules vary; thus, I recommend getting to the office the day before your departure and check.
You can reach Santo Antao by ferry only from Mindelo, Sao Vicente. There used to be an airport in Ponta do Sol. However, it had to be closed down after a tragic accident. I recommend taking the first ferry from Mindelo in order to make the most out of your time.
The arrival in the harbor of Porto Novo might be overwhelming to you as dozens of “aluguer” (public taxis) drivers are trying to catch your attention. That’s why I recommend arranging your transfer in advance.
In Porto Novo, you can opt between the Old and the New Street to the east part of the island with towns like Ribeira Grande or Ponta do Sol. The Old Street is more expensive and more winding but has the BEST, VERY BEST views. The New Street, along the coast, is cheaper but doesn’t provide the same spectacular views.
Indicative prices:
Old Road: 4500 CVE (40 €) to Ribeira Grande New Road: 400 CVE (4 €) to Ribeira Grande
I ABSOLUTELY recommend taking the Old Road by aluguer. It is an experience on its own! The Old Road used to connect the harbor of Porto Novo to Ribeira Grande and was built in the 60s. The mountains were just too steep to build a road along the coastline.
Paved with cobblestones, it will take you to some of Santo Antao’s most emblematic sites such as the Cova Crater, o Delgadim (Delgadinho) and several viewpoints. – Book here your car tour in Santo Antao
Cova Crater – Paul Valley
Cova is a volcanic caldera and at its highest point, it reaches 1500 m. Its diameter is about 1 km and is used as fertile farmland and pastureland. There is even a small village in the caldera that boasts particularly fertile soils due to high precipitation values carried by trade winds.
I recommend walking down from the Old Road to the crater. The path cannot be missed. It leads you to the top of the edge and from here you will have the most BREATHTAKING view ever on Paul Valley.
Sometimes, it might be clouded but the 1-hour trail from Old Street to the crater’s edge will be totally worth it! It’s one of the best things to do in Cape Verde, in my humble opinion.
Biosfera Amor do dia is a hostel offering private rooms as well. My favorite part was their breakfast. They make their own bread, served with homemade butter and jams! A delight! When you do the Old Road, I recommend to stop by for a quick coffee or herbal tea.
On a sunny day, Biosfera Amor do dia has the best views on the neighbor island of Sao Vicente.
From the Biosfera Amor do dia, you drive 10 minutes to the next village from which you can hike up to the top of Pico da Cruz. With its 1580 meters, it is the second-highest of Santo Antao.
Delgadim or Delgandinho is one of Santo Antao’s most emblematic sites. You’ll reach the mountain ridge after 30 minutes from the Cova crater.
Feel free to park the car on the left side (coming from Cova) and enjoy a spectacular view on 2 valleys.
The Delgadim separates the valley of Valle Ribeira Grande and Valle Ribeira da Torre. The street is incredibly narrow and I felt dizzy when imaging that 2 trucks should have to pass each other.
Ribeira Grande is the largest municipality of Santo Antao and also my favorite base to explore the rest of the island. The town, also known as “Povoacao”, is the main settlement of Santo Antao since its discovery.
Even though many of Ribeira Grande’s buildings are new, you can still spot several quaint examples of Portuguese architecture. One of my favorite things to do in Ribeira Grande, Santo Antao, is chasing mural art.
Sponsored by the prestigious 7Sois7Luas festival, artists from all over Europe come to Ribeira Grande to make its streets more colorful. Just take a stroll through its backstreets and you’ll find several mural gems.
When in Ribeira Grande, Santo Antao, you can’t miss the 7Sois7Luas center. It is the main cultural hub on the island, providing a supporting platform for local artists.
You can spend the night in one of the center’s guest rooms or organize a musical event. Indeed, a private music session with traditional Cape Verdean music can be organized upon request.
Contact Hamilton to arrange a musical performance or learn more about Cape Verdean music. (harolcv@hotmail.com or +238.911.9978 )
Xoxo
Don’t spend too much time in Ribeira Grande. There are still plenty of things to do and you’ll try to see as much as possible during your 2 days on Santo Antao.
I love Xoxo just for the sake of it 🙂 Pronounced “sho-sho” and only 5km from Ribeira Grande, Xoxo forms the end of the magnificent Valle Ribeira da Torre. I invite you to take some time to marvel at the impressive setting of the village and if you’re motivated, you can hike it up! I loved watching the daily grind when I was in Xoxo in 2017.
Before you reach Xoxo, you’ll pass along a waterfall, which might be a rewarding refreshment after all your discoveries.
In case you need to fuel up on energy, I recommend to stop at “Melicia” and have a calda (fresh sugar cane juice). It had the same effect on me as 2 cups of coffee. Don’t have too much of it as you might end up with diarrhea! If you’re very hungry, you can also have lunch here.
Lunch Time in Lombo Branco
I bet you’re very hungry after marveling at so much beauty! Well, I will tell you a secret spot, that only very few tourists might visit. Tell your driver or guide to take you to Lombo Branco to eat at Casa da Sonia. It is mandatory to book in advance at 00238.979.5212.
The street is uneven and narrow, thus I really recommend to go with your driver (I loved Galinha – 00238.993.1306) or with an aluguer.
From Lombo Branco village, you’ll enjoy beautiful views on the sea, whilst enjoying the warm climate of Paul Valley.
As Santo Antao is the most fertile island of the Cape Verdean archipelago, don’t be surprised to stumble upon avocado mousse for dessert, mango or passion fruit! Ingredients always vary with the seasons. – Book here your private villa in Lombo Branco Village
Hike to Fontainhas
Fueled up with energy, you might be ready to hike a bit, right? After all, Santo Antao is known as the paradise for hikersof any level.
Besides the 3-5 h long trail across Paul Valley from the Cova Crater to the Cidade das Pombas, the trail hike from Ponta do Sol to Fontainhas is one of the best hiking trails in Santo Antao.
Just drive to Ponta do Sol and leave your car there. I would never drive to Fontainhas village, unless you’re going with a professional driver. The road is extremely narrow and very high up!
Fontainhas has been elected the most beautiful village of Cape Verde. I hope this provides you enough motivation to take this trek! The hike takes about 1-2 hours from Ponta do Sol.
Go up to the cemetery of Ponta do Sol, pass along the pigsties and off you go! Just follow the trail until you reach Fontainhas. I am sure you’ll fall in love with the pastel-colored houses as much as I did.
They say that Fontainhas has been discovered by Francis Drake himself. And that he is the main reason why you can spot so many people with green or blue eyes in Fontainhas.
Please walk down to the village and enjoy the vibe of this very remote place. I highly recommend visiting Tchu, form Bar Tchu.This place will make you feel at home immediately. Tchú usually serves one daily menu made by ingredients of the surrounding gardens. I also recommend his self-made fruit juices.
Every other ingredient that doesn’t grow in the fertile valley, he gets it from RibeiraGrande. Consequently, several days a week, he walks all the way to RibeiraGrande to get the beers and cokes he serves in his bar. At (too) cheap prices. With a heavy heart, I said goodbye to Tchú and hiked back home the same way I came from Ribeira Grande.
That’s it for day 1. I recommend to return to your base and enjoy the Cape Verdean night. Why not with a concert at the 7Sois7Luas Music center? (Contact Hamilton – harolcv@hotmail.com or +238.911.9978 )
Day 2 will be filled with adventures again!
Day 2
Whether you wake up in Ribeira Grande or Ponta do Sol, a day packed with adventures, hikes and spectacular nature is awaiting you!
You can choose if you prefer to do one of the top hikes in Santo Antao or explore the island’s east part with a driver like Galinha (Tel.: 00238.993.1306).
Before hitting the trails of Santo Antao, make sure to have a look at the best vegan hiking boots. They are a great choice since they are completely cruelty-free.
Valle Ribeira Grande
After exploring the Valley Ribeira da Torre, it’s about time to discover the Valley of Ribeira Grande. You’ll drive along the stream bed of the river and lush vegetation with fruta do pao (breadfruit), mango, avocados, …
The road will take you to Coculi, one of the major towns of Santo Antao. From here, I took the road to make a short detour to Chã de Pedras. Indeed, the long and thin palm trees give the village quite a picturesque entrance.
I loved to spot all the banana trees and actually, my guide explained to me that banana leaves were used to drink water and as a plate. There is no other alternative to plates than a banana leaf.
Boca De Coruja
The views are getting more spectacular with every mile! I went back from Chã de Pedras to Coculi and took the main road again to Boca do Coruja and Boca das Ambas Ribeiras. The road took me below a former bridge, Ponte do Canal, which is no longer used.
As you continue to Lombo Santa (10 km from Ribeira Grande), you’ll enjoy some breathtaking views. From here, you can spot the former “caminhos vecinais” (serpentine trails) connecting the villages.
Garça
Garça is nestled on top of a steep valley that you’ll cross with the main road from Ribeira Grande. My main motivation to reach the village was the little supermarket, “mercearia”, where you can buy traditional products such as grogue, mango jam or homemade cookies.
Lunch Time in Forador
After your expedition to the Vale da Ribeira Grande, it’s time to have lunch. Even though you can stop at any village and have a snack, I recommend Casa Maria in Forador.
You’ll have lunch in their garden next to a water reserve, which will refresh you. The views were just unbeatable and the meal I had was so delicious.
Maria really showcased the best that Santo Antao island has to offer: sweet potatoes, corn, igname, fresh fish, fresh passion fruit juice, … It was a grand finale for my 2 days in Santo Antao.
Back to Porto Novo
If you have only 2 days in Santo Antao, it’s unfortunately already time to head back to the harbor in Porto Novo.
From Forador, you’ll drive back to Ribeira Grande and take the New Road to Porto Novo harbor.
But even though you might be a bit sad that your stay in Santo Antao is already coming to an end, I recommend several stops on the New Road that will protract your departure for a bit. – Book here your 1 Day Tour from Sao Vicente
Sinagoga
The first stop would be Sinagoga. The name of this village comes from a Jewish community that got ex-pulsed from Portugal and found a new home in Santo Antão. Nowadays, you can still see the impressive ruins of the synagogue.
After the Jewish community extinguished, the building was used as a sanatorium to help leprosy patients.
Despite the macabre historical background, the ruins are a great photo motive. Behind the ruins, you’ll be spoiled with some of the best natural pools in Santo Antao.
The next stop is Paul or Cidade das Pombas which is located at the end of the Natural Park Paul Valley. It’s a quaint, lively town with several hostels and a great base to explore the hiking trails of Paul Valley, one of the most fertile ones in Santo Antao.
Janela
The next stop on the New Road to Porto Novo is Janela. Janela (window), got its name from the rock formation reaching into the sea. Indeed, there is a hole in the rock-forming a window to the sky and the ocean.
Before crossing the tunnel, you might want to stop at the lighthouse (which has been fully renovated by a Spanish company) and it will provide you stunning views on the rocky coastline of Santo Antao.
After Janela, the landscape becomes flatter and drier. It is such a contrast to the lush green valleys of the east part.
When you reach Porto Novo, it will be already time to leave the beautiful Santo Antao. But I am sure that the island didn’t leave you indifferent and that you’ll be back very soon!
Santo Antao Map
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Before You Go: Top Tips for your Trip
You’ll snap tons of photos and I love to take my GoPro in order to shoot even in extreme situations.
Hola! I’m Paulina, a seasoned travelette who crossed the Atlantic Ocean by Boat HitchHiking. On my blog, find expert insights for an extraordinary holiday through outdoor and sustainable travel like hiking, cycling, and sailing. Let’s embark on unforgettable journeys together! 🌍🚀
I love your descriptions of Santo Antão. I was there about 27 years ago as a missionary. Back then we couldn't drink any of the water and could only eat in certain places that prepared their food in sanitary ways. How is the water/food situation now? What precautions need to be made nowadays to eat in the local restaurants and drink the water?
Paulina
Friday 2nd of September 2022
Hi Jack, oh wow what an experience! Santo Antao has changed loads since then I guess. Only during the 5 years, I was visiting, the island was changing all the time. I wuldn't drink the water there now. However for the food you have much more variety now. Did you ever go back?
Paula
Tuesday 6th of August 2019
Hi Paulina
Thanks for your blog and info about Cape Verde, it was really helpful to plan my trip in June around Isla de Sal, Sao Vicente and Santo Antao. I took note about your hiking routes around the awesome island of Santo Antao, and I explored others from local recommendations once in the island. I have created a blog just to give all possible info about my trip to next travellers, as there are not many info updated about this country.
Of course, I invite you to have a look and maybe you can find something new to do your next time in Santo Antao :) Thanks for your inspiration!
Paulina
Wednesday 7th of August 2019
Dear Paula, many thanks for your kind comment. I am so glad that the blog was useful, I really tried to put in as much information as possible. I had a look at your blog too and it looks very pretty. I love all the photos and it really makes me want to go back.
Let's keep in touch!
Heiko
Wednesday 26th of June 2019
This sounds sooo fascinating! Great photos... I loved the Azores as well and so especially Santo Antão in Cabo Verde is also on my travel list. Thank u so much for all your tips and stories, Paulina.
Paulina
Thursday 27th of June 2019
Dear Heiko, thank you so much for your kind comment! Oh yes the Azores are amazing! Santo Antao, however, is a unique place in this world. Let me know when you go, I would love to hear about it.
Jack
Tuesday 30th of August 2022
I love your descriptions of Santo Antão. I was there about 27 years ago as a missionary. Back then we couldn't drink any of the water and could only eat in certain places that prepared their food in sanitary ways. How is the water/food situation now? What precautions need to be made nowadays to eat in the local restaurants and drink the water?
Paulina
Friday 2nd of September 2022
Hi Jack, oh wow what an experience! Santo Antao has changed loads since then I guess. Only during the 5 years, I was visiting, the island was changing all the time. I wuldn't drink the water there now. However for the food you have much more variety now. Did you ever go back?
Paula
Tuesday 6th of August 2019
Hi Paulina
Thanks for your blog and info about Cape Verde, it was really helpful to plan my trip in June around Isla de Sal, Sao Vicente and Santo Antao. I took note about your hiking routes around the awesome island of Santo Antao, and I explored others from local recommendations once in the island. I have created a blog just to give all possible info about my trip to next travellers, as there are not many info updated about this country. Of course, I invite you to have a look and maybe you can find something new to do your next time in Santo Antao :) Thanks for your inspiration!
Paulina
Wednesday 7th of August 2019
Dear Paula, many thanks for your kind comment. I am so glad that the blog was useful, I really tried to put in as much information as possible. I had a look at your blog too and it looks very pretty. I love all the photos and it really makes me want to go back. Let's keep in touch!
Heiko
Wednesday 26th of June 2019
This sounds sooo fascinating! Great photos... I loved the Azores as well and so especially Santo Antão in Cabo Verde is also on my travel list. Thank u so much for all your tips and stories, Paulina.
Paulina
Thursday 27th of June 2019
Dear Heiko, thank you so much for your kind comment! Oh yes the Azores are amazing! Santo Antao, however, is a unique place in this world. Let me know when you go, I would love to hear about it.